Category: Weekend Escape

  • 9:38 PM. Letters to Papa. Starlight

    9:38 PM. Letters to Papa. Starlight

    It was 9:38 PM.

    It was pitch black at Autocamp Yosemite as we walked away from the lit lobby, its fireplace still going, towards the central pond where people were collecting for guided stargazing. We could barely see anything but the night was alive. I could hear the screech of an owl, could be a news anchor from a past life; and the bullfrogs croaking at the top of their lungs, probably smoking one and dealing cards amongst themselves. The wind in the trees was rushing faster than the Bay Area traffic. There was no light pollution, none of the city glow standing between us and the sky. Then there were the children running around and somewhere behind me, a campfire was still sending up its smoke.

    A small crowd had gathered around the telescope for the guided viewing, and I was listening to the guide have his conversations. It was interesting how some people were more interested in other stars than the ones right in front of them. Some people were not even amused by what they saw in the telescope. To each his own, I suppose. 

    “Hey there! Let me grab this for you.”

    The guide had spotted our little four-year-old hurricane. He brought out a ladder for her to stand on, and she climbed it like she climbs everything. He asked her what color stars she could see. She hesitated. Then, softly came, “lellow”.

    He pointed. Asked if she could see the blue one too.

    She nodded.

    Then came my turn. Electricity running through my body. I pressed my eye to the telescope and I felt like an astronomer. I spotted both stars, the yellow and the blue, and I beamed with pride, as if I had hung them there myself. 

    Papa.
    I learnt back in 5th grade that light takes time to travel. 

    So what we see in the big open sky is not the sky, it is a picture frame from long ago. The light I saw at 9:38 PM left Albireo about four hundred years back. It has been traveling all this while. And we don’t even know what has happened to that binary star right now. We just keep receiving its light.

    I think you know where I’m going with this.

    The guide said, Albireo is two stars that revolve around each other. At first glance, you only see the yellow one, the bright one, the one everyone points at. Later, you realize the blue one is also there. Quieter. Merging like it’s becoming one with the vast dark cosmos. And without the blue one, the yellow one probably would not exist.

    It felt like yin and yang to me.

    It felt like you.


    Papa, you don’t know her yet, but your grand-daughter is a tiny hurricane. You would call her “My Queen Saanvi.” I know that for a fact.

    That afternoon, lying on the hammock, she and I had made up a song. It’s called “All About Myself,” and it goes exactly the way you think it does:

    “It’s all about myself, it’s all about me… my galaxy is Milky Way, my favorite planet Saturn and it has 1 ring ..”

    “No! more”, I said.

    “No! one!”, she argues like someone I know.

    And I know what you’re saying right now, that’s my granddaughter. You would do her little dance and you would sing her song loud and proud… because that’s so you. The memories of you and your little dance flood my mind. In my room, the day you gave me my first laptop, you loved gadgets, and you loved giving me one even more. You were so happy, so proud. I had my dancey moment, and you joined in with that cheeky smile. The twister step.

    Was that an 80s thing or a 70s thing?

    I wish you could hold her.


    Later that night, I found Venus with my naked eye.

    I checked it on the app before saying a word about it, you know how I am, I don’t share anything with her that I haven’t verified first. Somebody has to protect the facts in this family. But… I kept it to myself. Just for a second. Just to admire it alone. I looked for its reflection in the little pond, where the bullfrog was still croaking at the top of his lungs.

    So I gave her the frog first. Then all the sounds of the night, one by one. Then Venus.

    Then we sang her song to it.


    For dinner, we had made Maggi in the iron skillet, outside our Airstream, under the trees. True tandoori maggi, exactly how it is supposed to be. No vegetables, just maggi, extra salt and a little paprika for that smoky flavor. Corn on the cob. Blueberry lemonade. A watermelon we carried from home and cut right there, outside. It was the most natural thing in the world. Your two daughters with their banter, cooking and playing with the little one and enjoying the surroundings, the football match playing on a laptop we placed outside, its small light glowing between the trees.

    It was her birthday trip. There was a balloon that said so.

    We did not say anything about you.

    We were hungry, and the maggi was delicious, and life was happening, that is the truth. But we spoke about you the way we always do now. In bits and pieces. In moments of calm. In the silences.

    Then Messi scored, and I could hear your voice ringing in my ear, clear as anything: “Maradona is the best. Messi ki aisi ki taisi.” Haha.

    You left us too early, Papa. I can hear the betrayal in my own voice when I say it. Life cheated on us.


    What I love about Yosemite is it makes me feel small and my problems smaller. I like to believe the mountains are stars. Being close to one helps me materialize the perspective, no matter how many lightyears away it is from being pragmatically correct. In different lives, there might be different Shivanis. 

    A Shivani who climbed Half Dome free solo. 

    A Shivani who never visited Yosemite.
    And I wonder which Shivani would be the happiest. 

    Somewhere out there, I believe, is a Shivani from another life.
    A Shivani whose whole family came to Yosemite. Ma, you, my sister, my husband, my daughter. The complete recipe. You are there, refusing to hike, loving the camping, appearing out of nowhere the moment the maggi hits the skillet, “Arre, what are you making? One for me too!”
    And then you say how proud of your daughters you are and give that Shivani and Nidhi a big bear hug, one in each of your arms.

    That Shivani gets angry at your crazy dad jokes.

    This Shivani would do anything to hear one more.

    I wish the best for that Shivani, I truly do. Happiness is not one-dimensional and it is not absolute. Life is a recipe, not one ingredient, a little happiness here, a little sadness there. But she probably does not know what she has.


    Here is what I keep thinking, Papa. 

    If light takes its time, then this night is traveling too. 

    Saanvi on her ladder. The song about herself, sung to Venus. The skillet, the smoke, the balloon. Nidhi’s laughter. The banter between your daughters. The yellow one and the blue one, revolving around each other, holding each other in place.

    It’s all on its way to you.

    One for you too. 

    Yours,
    Shivani

    PS: My letter to Saanvi was at 9:58 PM. Twenty minutes away from yours. I know you are definitely doing the twister step about that.

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  • Truckee, Undiscovered

    Truckee, Undiscovered

    What happens when you stop driving to Tahoe and stay in the town that got left behind

    Postcard from Donner Lake

    Everyone drives through Truckee on the way to Lake Tahoe.

    We stayed.

    For Memorial Day weekend we skipped the famous lake, the crowded beaches, the bumper-to-bumper Hwy 50. We booked two nights at Gravity Haus in downtown Truckee, called our friends, packed our kids, and went looking for a slower version of the Sierra Nevada. Late May through September is the sweet spot. Snow is gone, crowds haven’t peaked, and the river is running.

    We found it.

    “Think of it as Lake Tahoe’s quieter, more soulful little sister. Same mountains. Same water. But a pace of life that makes you forget what day it is.”

    Before You Leave

    Leave early. The road rewards it.

    We left Bay Area, California at 8 am. This was not optional, I-80 over the Sierra on a holiday weekend is either beautiful or punishing depending entirely on when you leave. At 8 am it was beautiful.

    Stop at your local coffee spot before you hit the freeway. We grabbed bagels and didn’t stop until Roseville. You could break the drive at Auburn, there’s a lovely cafe called The Pour Choice in Old Town if you need it, but honestly, once the mountains start, you won’t want to stop.

    Day One

    SATURDAY

    The lake was smaller than Tahoe. That was the whole point.

    We checked into Gravity Haus around noon. The hotel gave us chocolates. The rooms were beautiful. They had proper design, outdoor seating, an on-site restaurant called Stella, and a hot tub that became the centerpiece of every evening.

    We dropped our bags and drove straight to Donner Lake.

    West End Beach had bathrooms, a playground, lifeguards, and water so calm you could see the bottom. Ducks moved through without any particular urgency. My daughter played in the shallows for two hours. I actually relaxed. That almost never happens.

    There is something about a lake you can take in all at once. Tahoe is magnificent but it feels like an ocean. It is vast and indifferent. Donner Lake felt personal. Contained. It lets you breathe out slowly.

    “I kept admiring the houses along the shore. I found myself wondering what it must feel like to wake up to this every single morning.”

    Before heading back, drive up Old Hwy 40 toward Donner Summit. Do this the same afternoon. It’s five minutes from the beach and the view looking down over the lake from the overlook is one of those images that stays with you.

    I have to de-influence you here. I read that there is also a hidden swing about two-thirds of the way up, just off the south side of the road. I could not find it. I do not regret it.

    SATURDAY EVENING

    Downtown Truckee deserves more than a passing through.

    Historic Commercial Row is small enough to walk in twenty minutes and good enough to walk three times. Boutiques, a candy shop (Sweets Handmade Candies, non-negotiable with children), galleries, and some genuinely excellent places to eat.

    We had lunch at MASA Kitchen. House-made sourdough pizzas, Mexican-inspired tapas, no seed oils, no preservatives. The cauliflower ceviche was a revelation. The kids had quesadillas and were thrilled. We lingered longer than we planned.

    That evening: hot tub. Early to bed. Tomorrow was a river day.

    Day Two

    SUNDAY

    The river will become your favourite thing.

    We had a heavy breakfast at Squeeze In before we left. The portions are unflinching and the veggie options are good. Then we stopped at CoffeeBar and picked up sandwiches for the water. This was the single best logistical decision of the entire trip.

    We booked with Truckee River Rafting Company, family-owned since 1973. Park at the Hidden Valley lot at 2200 River Rd in Tahoe City (not at the launch site, there is no parking there). The shuttle takes you up, the staff hands out life jackets for every age including toddlers, and then you float.

    Five miles of the Sierra Nevada at its most generous.

    Five miles. Class I. A few gentle rapids at the end that made the children shriek with delight. Pine-scented air. Sandbar beaches where we pulled off, stretched, waddled in the water, and ate our CoffeeBar sandwiches while the river moved slowly past.

    We finished around 1pm. There’s a restaurant right at the takeout point, River Ranch Lodge. It has a riverside patio that is the definition of earned. We were not hungry (sandwiches), but we stayed for cold drinks anyway.

    My daughter fell asleep in the car within five minutes of leaving. We called it a tactical win.

    SUNDAY Evening

    Reserve the ramen. Do not try to walk in.

    We rallied for dinner at Rakkan Ramen. Warm, perfectly seasoned broth, vegetarian options that don’t feel like afterthoughts, a room full of people who’d also spent the day outdoors and earned their noodles. Reserve in advance. This place fills up, especially on holiday weekends.

    After dinner: ice cream. Downtown wandering. Candies again, because apparently once is not enough.

    Day Three

    monday – memorial day

    Go slowly. Then go home before 12.

    We took Monday slowly. Breakfast at CoffeeBar. It has excellent espresso, pastries that don’t try too hard. My husband worked from the hotel. I visited the bookstore on Commercial Row with friends, which is the kind of quiet thing you can only do when you are genuinely on holiday.

    You can make a quick drive to Kings Beach on North Lake Tahoe, twenty minutes from Truckee, the famous crystal-blue water, a sandy shore and a playground right on the beach. A perfect final morning. Go early, leave by 11.

    We left by noon. This was not optional either. Memorial Day westbound I-80 after 2pm is an experience I will not have again by choice. Leave by noon. Arrive home feeling like you went somewhere real.

    One thing Truckee promised and the clouds did not deliver: stars. The public piers at Donner Lake on a clear night are supposed to be extraordinary. Truckee is a certified Dark Sky community, and they say the Milky Way reflects in the water with the mountains silhouetted around it.

    The person at the Gravity Haus reception told us about it with the kind of quiet certainty that made us believe him completely. We will go back for that alone.

    The Essentials
    Everything you need before you go
    Stay
    Gravity Haus Truckee · Boutique, walkable, hot tub, excellent restaurant. Book early.
    The Beach
    Donner Lake West End Beach · Lifeguards, playground, calm water, ducks. Bring chairs. Stay longer than planned.
    The Activity
    Truckee River Rafting Company · Book at truckeeriverrafting.com. Park at 2200 River Rd. Ages 2+. Don’t skip this.
    Eat
    MASA Kitchen (lunch) · Rakkan Ramen (dinner, reserve ahead) · Squeeze In (breakfast) · CoffeeBar (coffee + sandwiches)
    The Detour
    Donner Lake Overlook + the swing · Old Hwy 40, two-thirds up toward the summit, south side of the road. Search Google Maps, it’s pinned by visitors.
    Stars
    Donner Lake public piers after 9pm · Bring blankets and a headlamp. Truckee is a certified Dark Sky community.
    Pack
    Layers · Evenings drop to 40°F in late May. Puffer jacket non-negotiable. Sunscreen, water shoes, warm pajamas for kids.
    Drive
    Leave by 7am on holiday weekends. Return by noon on Memorial Day. Non-negotiable on both counts.

    Until next time!